It could, but I don’t think there would be any benefit. The key thing this does is make walls a bit closer to the theoretical perfect solid structure.

Not as drastic as I had hoped, but it looks like around 5% better layer adhesion provided you increase the flow rate slightly to fit in the gaps. It essentially makes a print that’s more solid in the walls.

I saw elsewhere someone doing prints with transparent filament and they were also getting optically better prints with this.

Also, there’s a pull request on Orca… Not sure when it’ll come out, but they’re working on building it into the slicer.

Their big defense seems to be, “We haven’t even done anything yet.”

Sorry Bambu, but you’re late to the enshittification game. Setting up a situation where you CAN do these things is a Chekhov gun: sooner or later, we know you’ll put them to use.

There’s already a project to retrofit klipper hardware.

https://github.com/ChazLayyd/Bambu-Lab-Klipper-Conversion/blob/main/README.md

As it turns out, there’s already a project… https://github.com/ChazLayyd/Bambu-Lab-Klipper-Conversion/blob/main/README.md

Just did this yesterday. You won’t need the whole afternoon. It was surprisingly simple.

I’m unconcerned. I knew what I was getting into with a walled garden ecosystem, and though I didn’t expect them to dive straight into the enshittification deep end, I figures they would eventually do something fairly shady. The real question is how long it will take to release the first X1C-Klipper refit.

Politicians are such profoundly unserious people.

Meh, I don’t think they’re quite foolish enough to go full Juicero, but I won’t be updating my firmware.

🤣 That would be absolutely PERFECT.

🤣 “Everyone uses this thing… it must be possible to monetize that somehow!”

I’d really like to hear their “underpants gnome” business plan for how that’s going to work.

Nope, you’re missing the point entirely. There’s absolutely nothing stopping me from walking into the other room, tearing apart my X1C and rebuilding it with, let’s say a klipper board, except that it works quite well at the moment… No printer bought right now is likely to be any different in that respect. You’re trying to act like it’s an i-phone, but it just isn’t.

Ten years… Someone apparently thinks they’re funny. I’d like to see their ten year old 3d printer that is still essentially using stock or equivalent components and hasn’t been essentially re-engineered from the ground up. Are you enjoying manually leveling that bed with thumbscrews and a scrap of paper? Still printing on tape, or maybe a piece of glass? This whole hobby is still moving relatively quickly and I wouldn’t be surprised to wind up working with additional axes or other unpredictable innovations ten years from now. Certainly we’ll have gone through multiple “ultimate” build surfaces by then.

Me too.

It has definitely come a long way from my first attempt with it. It’s really usable now and I suspect it will only get better with a larger user base.

There are already several aftermarket suppliers making parts for them, including a drop-in e3d hot end. Look, I generally prefer open source designs, but the hassle-free workflow with an X1C has been worth it.

Also, they sold a PILE of these things, I suspect aftermarket support will continue even if Bambu stops.

I pop my PEI bed with finished print into the freezer for about 5 minutes. Pops right off, every time. No tape, no glue, I just wash the bed with soapy water between prints.

Looks interesting. My primary focus is on engineering materials, but I’d love a truly biodegradable draft filament and I’m willing to put in a bit of time working out how to make it work with my equipment. Looking at Colorfabb’s site, it appears they only sell it in 750g spools which is incredibly frustrating considering my intended use. For a draft filament, the bigger the roll, the better!

i recently got back into printing. I had some PLA, some PETG, some ABS and some ASA all of which had sat for longer than that. After thorough drying in a dehydrator, a couple of rolls just didn’t cooperate but most did. The troublesome ones may not have been very good to start - unbranded mystery stuff.

That is spot-on what works for me. Warm soapy water has given me the best results with a PEI plate. The chamber heat soak is also big for these troublesome filaments. My printing gear lives in a closet and for trouble prints, I will crank up the bed, and my filament dryer for a half-hour or so to get reliable chamber temps.