Considering how we use it. It is absolutely fascinating. Same for magnetism

Sounds like the perfect thing to test and iterate and then use that to have something machined in metal.

Of course with some stronger materials it may be fine. But how resilient will the belts be from the tension/stress and is there any risk of injury when they snap?

The Speed of Light is NOT About Light

Klipper is a different beast but once you get it going it’s leaps and bounds ahead.

No more compiling and editing firmware. Since the Klipper firmware itself is built and deployed to the board so the logic of what features, pins, etc can be controlled by your pi.

E.g. the board is no longer the “brains” of the printer but the brain stem. Where the brain (the pi) tells it on pin A “tell this stepper motor to turn this”, on pin J “tell the heater to cycle on” etc.

Basically you download Klipper, look at a printer.cfg for the board you have, and then just use that as a starting point.

Here’s the generic printer.cfg for your new board

https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/generic-creality-v4.2.7.cfg

The real power comes from having the option to use macros for things like START_PRINT and END_PRINT.

For example, when I added a Nevermore fan on an skr mini e3v3 board I just had to wire it, find the “pins for the plug” on the board and then add the necessary config change.

Didn’t work? Comment it out and restart firmware and you’re no worse than it not being there. Adjust, restart, and go.

So where I’d avoid a marlin update because of the hassle of building and updating I now just check for updates, ssh in and build it with a command and update the board over USB.

And that’s just to update the Klipper firmware on the board for whatever fixes/changes are needed for Klipper. For things like new macros or existing items changed around you just update the config and “restart” and it does the rest.

The only thing that you lose with an ender is the screen. Their screens aren’t dumb… they have their own weird firmware. Personally I just use the website and now the moonraker mobile app to control everything and I don’t bother with a screen at all.

It may be easier to supply DC power directly to the soldering joints (at the right values after the converter) or even replacing that one component as using the jack itself.

The hassle and delay is part of how it works. If there was a seamless catch all then it wouldn’t be feasible to make it secure.

Having a second physical factor, as much as it can be a hassle, is much better than any single factor.

Your password can be breached, brute forced, bypassed if there’s an issue somewhere.

Your biometrics can’t be changed so anything that breaks them (such as the breach of finger prints in databases, etc) makes them moot.

A single physical token can be stolen and/or potentially cloned by some attack in physical proximity (or breach of an upstream certificate authority)

But doing multiple of those at the same time. That’s inordinately much harder to do.

I will say the point/gist of the article is a good one. The variety of types some used here and others used there does make it a hassle to try to wrangle all the various accounts/logins. Especially in their corporate and managed deployment which isn’t saving passwords and has a explicit expiration of credential cache (all good things)

A bunch of tiny lightbulbs that use twisted light and quantum mechanics to turn on or off.

Right. It looks so smooth.

Can even use cylinders to group some circular parts of the model together naturally so that the “glue” points are at the bottom inside the walls where they’re not obvious

And if you want to tank it without overtly tanking it.

“We will need to establish a review and governance board to establish standard data structures and reporting that can be used to drive the initiative.

It will need to be cross team and cross specialty so we should start by establishing a group to identify those people so we can proceed”

A year later and you’ll be lucky if they’ve even picked out who can be part of the review process let alone agree on some convention and adjusting their tooling and processes to make that work.

Range is 0.7. Not great but not as horrible as it looks in the display.

I’m not familiar with the Neptune and how, if at all, you adjust the bed screws but getting that range nearish to your layer size should do wonders.

Awesome but I wish it was more active. That being said the community is primarily located on the Discord channel as far as I can tell

Some vendors that sell LDO and other kits

https://west3d.com/collections/kits/LDO

https://kb-3d.com/store/151-shop-full-build-kits

There are others and you can check out the discord, YouTube channels like Nero 3D “The Canuck Creator” and “Steve Builds” for more info

Since you mention tweaking/adjusting/etc a Voron may be right for you.

There are kits for sourcing the majority of the stuff and then you build it yourself.

The Afterburner and Stealthburner are great for ABS out of the gate but there are toolheads that can also work with PLA such as DragonBurner.

https://www.vorondesign.com

The entire ecosystem is open especially if you’re using Klipper

Why’s he breaking down the door?

She’s been in there for hours. How else is he supposed to get her out the door for dinner.

[More laughter]

Try explaining that purchase.

It’s for smoothing out something I’m making. So it’ll look and act the way I want.

And the lotion? No officer, no lotion. Where would the lotion go?

And you know what? That’s a great design philosophy.

Simple and repeatable. Besides you don’t want to risk more expensive lenses with more breakable parts (so the metal hinges make sense)

Lazy wouldn’t have made them so I’d call it efficient use of your time.

Yeah. Even with acetone you want to be mindful. Nasty stuff and not to be played with lightly.

But interesting application if you can do it safely.

I have a wall mount for some a pretty hefty stepping stool and it’s been going strong for a few years.

PETG really does handle that well while similar things I’ve printer in PLA broke even with layer line orientation and a lot of walls.

Good stuff.